About Our Services
- Solar Powered Fan Attic Installation
- Equipment Erection
- Air Conditioning
- Maintenance Contracts
About Our Services
If your system has been designed properly, you should set the thermostat for your comfort level. During the cooling season, anywhere from 76 degrees to 82 degrees is common. During the heating season, settings typically range between 66 degrees to 74.
Dependant upon the age of the system, you may want to have each system serviced twice a year. We recommend contacting us directly so we can design a program for you.
Unless the system is very old (over 15 years), and has not been properly maintained, it should be relatively safe. The newer systems do not have an open pilot, therefore being much less of a safety concern. If you are concerned, please contact us and we can come out and evaluate your furnace and give you our recommendations.
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. Above and beyond that, it is basically the rating the government set so each unit manufacturer would rate all units equally, hence giving the consumer an accurate sense of what they are purchasing. SEER is the number of BTU’s per watt. The more BTU’s per watt, the less it will cost to run the system.
**A heat pump works just like an air conditioner, but during the
demand for heating the refrigerant cycle is reversed, with a “reversing
valve” and the hot (high pressure) refrigerant is pumped into the indoor
coil, thus delivering heating into the structure.
Not necessarily. The design of the unit and quality of the installation will determine the efficiency realized by you, the consumer. Efficiency is dependant on the cost of the power, be it electricity, gas, or propane. It is important to point out, however a heat pump is best applied in a mild climate.
Again, dependant on the application, the installation itself, installation expense, and cost of energy, the efficiency can be affected. Contact us today to determine what type of system will best meet your needs.
It is not recommended, as one system cools by adding humidity, and the other cools by removing humidity. If your system was designed properly, it will have a “barometric damper” installed into the ductwork. The evaporative cooler adds humidity to the space, and the air conditioner works by removing humidity from the space. The barometric damper prevents air from flowing through the ductwork and out the cooler when the air conditioning is on. If there is one installed on the air conditioner side, that one prevents the evaporative cooler air from blowing back into the indoor coil, and out the return. Occasionally barometric dampers may become stuck, and need to be inspected.
Dependant upon your comfort level, an evaporative cooler may typically be used during the months of March, April, May, June, September, October, November, and occasionally during all of the other months. During high humidity days, the evaporative cooler will be less effective at cooling and achieving comfort.
The water coming off the roof, or also out of a pvc pipe is called
condensation. An air conditioner creates condensation during the
cooling process. Evaporative coolers also have water run off as a part
of normal functioning. If you notice a significant increase in the
amount of water, please contact Todd Edwards Air Conditioning so we can come
out and determine if there has been a failure in your system. You may
want to also verify your unit is level.
If any major repairs are needed after the compressor warranty expires, you may want to consider replacing the unit. Typically a properly installed system will last a minimum of 8 to 12 years.
I recently had a company call me, and give me a great deal on a maintenance contract where they come out twice a year. The guy was just here, and even though my unit has been working just fine, he says I need some parts replaced. How long should these parts last, and how do you know when they fail – if the unit is still working?
Two points: Anything can be fixed, and after a minute of run time, a
unit is old. There is a point when a part is considered “worn” enough
that it may warrant replacement. Typically if you can see “burnt” areas
at the contactor, or anywhere within the wiring then you may want to
consider replacing the contactor. But remember, the points on the
contactor will always have some black carbon looking residue on them.
NO. This is a common misnomer. The condenser coil works when the air is able to flow through the coil, typically flowing through the sides, and out the top of the unit. If this area is restricted, in any way the operation of the unit will be affected. It is suggested a minimum of 36" around the perimeter of the unit, and nothing over the top of it - for most applications.
The ceiling fan does not lower the temperature in the house. Humans cool via the evaporation of sweat on our skin, which creates a cooling effect. The added airflow from the ceiling fan can enhance this effect and make you feel more comfortable.
Monthly, during high usage periods, and every two months during lighter usage months. Once again, the filter must be changed when it is dirty, and begins to markedly restrict the airflow. Todd Edwards Air Conditioning commonly recommends to our clients to change the filter at the first of each month.
Dependant upon the age of the equipment, and the original SEER rating of your equipment, it’s SEER rating can typically range from 6 SEER to 12 SEER. Call Todd Edwards Air Conditioning if you are concerned about your existing unit, and we can come out and provide a professional evaluation of your equipment, visit with you to determine your wants and needs, and suggest repairs/improvements or even replacement of the system to improve your efficiency.
The “U” shaped part of the drain is called a “P-trap” and is required on many systems. The drain is necessary so the condensation can escape, but the condensation only trickles out, leaving most of the pipe full of air. On many units, the design of the system creates a situation where this hot air in the pipe can be sucked into the unit. The reason for the “P-trap” is to prevent any outside air from entering the system. The P-trap creates a water column thus preventing air from traveling through the pipe. A vent is also typically a necessary part of your drainage piping. The vent MUST be down the line from the P-trap or it will render the P-trap useless.